Step 4: Open the reservoir at the lever by removing the small screw. This step isn’t critical, but I find it helpful. Most brakes have a small hex screw on the inside of the lever. Often your brakes will feel worse with the lever closest to the bar. Step 3: Adjust the brake lever throw to the spongiest position. In either situation, I like to rotate the lever slightly so that it’s parallel to the ground. Hanging by the front wheel works well for the back brake. We want all the air moving upwards to the lever. If you’re working on the front brake, having the bike upright on the wheels or in a stand is good. Step 2: Position the bike so the brake lever is at the highest point. You’ll also need a small amount of brake fluid make sure you confirm whether your system uses DOT or Mineral Oil. I got this ” EZ Bleed Kit” from Jeff Bezos for a few bucks.
#Cannondale quick disk break adjustment full
Step 1: You’re going to need a simple bleed kit. We’re not doing a full bleed, but you’ll need a few bits and pieces. This should work for Shimano and SRAM brakes and probably other brands too. Today I’m working on a Shimano XTR Race Brake. I am not intimately familiar with every brake system out there, so consult your user manuals. If your brakes are simply spongy or get progressively stronger after a few lever pulls, this quick fix is for you. You likely have a small amount of air in the lines that is simple to remove. This method can also be effective after cutting or shortening a hydraulic line if you’re careful not to lose to a ton of fluid. Plus, it can turn into a slippery mess rather quickly. Brakes aren’t something to experiment with, so please consult a qualified bike mechanic if you are not comfortable bleeding hydraulic lines. If your brakes are completely non-functional, you’ll need a full bleed, which is beyond the scope of this article. If you’re riding hydraulic disc brakes, you’ve probably dealt with less than ideal lever feel. Air will eventually find its way into your lines one way or another.
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